Since at least as early as classical times pigments, oils and moisturizing agents, such as water, have been used in cosmetic preparations to improve the appearance of the skin. Artifacts uncovered by archaeologists include numerous spatulas, spoons, and other applicators for applying pigment to the skin. Indeed, the basic formula for a moisturizing agent was developed by no one less than Galen, the ancient physician himself upon his discovery that water and olive oil could be emulsified to form cold cream which may be used as a moisturizing agent. No doubt he was inspired by the widely followed practice among Romans of bathing in water and then applying olive oil to the skin, without drying, in order to lock in the moisture of the bath water remaining in the skin.
In their essentials, even today, cosmetic preparations remain substantially the same consisting as they do of oils, water and, in the case of colorizing cosmetics, pigment.
In order to better understand the invention, it is useful to consider typical procedures followed in the manufacture of liquid makeup systems. As alluded to above, the basic ingredient in any color makeup system is the pigment which is used to impart the desired color. Typically used pigments include, red, brown, russet, black, and yellow iron oxides and titanium dioxide. Such pigments are mixed with fillers or extenders, such as talc or kaolin. In addition, other materials such as chalk, fish scale, Fuller's earth and magnesium carbonates may be used to achieve special effects.
In addition to simply increasing the volume of the liquid makeup and maintaining a desired powder concentration, extenders also serve the purpose of forming color dispersions which can be adjusted to compensate for color variations in the raw pigment. The pulverization of pigments with materials having apparently relatively low color strength also has the effedt of developing latent color in the pigment. Typically such pulverization is accomplished using a micro-pulverizer.
Once a pigment is micro-pulverized with the extender, the same is typically put into a pigment/extender dispersion. At this point the extender and pigment have been mixed in a manner calculated to achieve maximum development of color strength and to match a color standard. In addition, the micropulverization process has also tended to develop some of the latent color and to some extent to reduce apparent differences in raw pigments. Such micro-pulverization also has the effect of reducing differences which occur during the aqueous stage of processing.
The blender, comprising pigments and extenders in a micro-pulverization mixture, is then dispersed into an aqueous phase using high shear mixing or a colloid mill, to form an emulsion. Such emulsion is formed with a heated aqueous phase in a manner well-known in the prior art and generally involving the charging of a main mixer with a part of the water to be used in the aqueous phase together with a suitable wetting agent. Powders (e.g. pigment and extenders) are added to the main mixer and high shear mixing is performed for 15 to 20 minutes. The remainder of the aqueous phase is then charged into the mixer and high shear mixing is changed to fast mixing. At the same time the aqueous phase begins being heated to 85 degrees centigrade. During the heating and fast mixing phase of the process, the appropriate mixing can be achieved with a simple propeller.
When the mix reaches 85 degrees centigrade, mixing with the propeller is stopped. This allows air to rise in the mix. An anti-foaming agent is added to the mix at this time.
A charge of oils and waxes which has been preheated in a steam pan to 85 degrees centigrade is then added to the aqueous phase. The two solutions are then stirred into each other for approximately 15 minutes. Stirring is done at a relatively high speed but the speed must not be so high as to create a vortex. The mixture is maintained at 85 degrees centigrade during stirring.
After the stirring has been completed, the mixture is allowed to cool. When the temperature reaches approximately 40 degrees centigrade, a preservative may be added. When the mixture reaches 35 degrees centigrade, fragrance can be added to the makeup system. Finally, after cooling is completed, the liquid makeup system can be subjected to the appropriate quality control standards for color, feel and so forth.
Obviously, the process described above is replete with opportunities for error. All handling of the liquid makeup ingredients carries the possibility of microbiological contamination. The longer a process is, the greater the likelihood that product may be adversely affected through drying out of ingredients, contamination of one color with another, heat effects, and so forth. The ideal objective is a simplification and reduction in the number of the steps and a reduction in the duration of steps. Obviously, the successful pursuit of these objectives will also reduce the cost of product, by reducing the manufacturing cost of total products as well as by reducing the quantity of unusable product.
Nevertheless, in the past, the careful use of the above procedure and the incorporation into the makeup system of numerous agents have been required insofar as the essential ingredients of the cosmetic comprise oil and water which by their very nature, cannot easily mix and which, even after mixing, may not have the right feel. Neverthless, even with the employment of numerous additional ingredients, liquid makeup systems, for example, tend to settle out and degrade after a period of time. Other makeup systems degrade in other ways. In addition, while the feel of a product is initially commercially acceptable, this "feel" will be lost in time. Moreover, even at its best, feel is not as fine and pleasing as the feel of other non-cosmetic materials such as cornstarch, velvet, satin or fur.